Annapurna: Days five - ten

Chame, Lower Pisang, Manang, Yak Kharka, Throng Pedi

By day five it was officially cold, especially at night, especially when there's no form of heating anywhere. Hiking in the cold wasn't so bad at all as the constant uphill battle kept the blood pumping but the second you stopped it was shiver central. By this time in the trek there were some great views of Annapurna II and Pisang Peak which loom over the valley that hugged the trail for a few days. I kept happy and energized with the ipod (thank you Apple, for this wonderful invention) and the White Rabbit candies and Snickers bars I toted along the way. By day six we were at 3400m after a steep steep 3 hour up climb, then some Nepali flat. It was the only time I woke myself up from a sleep because I stopped breathing (common in high altitudes - you're bodies way of getting rid of too much CO2). To acclimatize a bit more we did a few short hikes up past our lodge then came back down to sleep low. In Pisang we checked out a beautiful old mountain temple, watched goats feast on pot plants, and snuggled in around the fire for dinner to eat momo's and garlic soup.

A long and gradual climb led us to Manang where we spent two nights to acclimatize and feast on the best food of the trek to date. Sandwiches, apple pie, and veg burgers sort of made up for the restless sleeps we'd been having since Lower Pisang. On our day off we went to a free lecture put on by the HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association) which was started by volunteer doctors who take turns staffing clinics around the Annapurna and Everest Regions. They aid about 70% locals and 30% trekkers and of course are totally non-profit. The lecture was about altitude sickness and AMS (acute mountain sickness) and I thought it was very informative and worthwhile despite the dumb ass questions that were asked by a few attendees. After learning about AMS symptoms, how to deal with them, and when to actually worry I felt much better that I could rescue Lifa if need be.

Two more short but very steep days took us to 4591m and the base of the Throng La Pass. Notable mentions were the fact that it was snowing off and on the whole time, freezing cold, and the fact that I smelled really really bad having not shower in days. We also spotted some spectacular wildlife - a golden eagle, some yaks, and spotted deer, all very neat. Throng Pedi was our last stop before the pass and one of the most isolated places I have ever been to (they only open the tea house there during peak season). Lifa and I spent the evening playing cards with Nirpa and some other porters and stressing in anticipation of the next day. We were in bed by quarter past six ready to get up and kick Throng La's ass.