Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Going big, not home



Why come to Nepal if you're not going to trek? And why bother trekking if you're not going to do the best one? And by best, I mean longest, hardest, and highest. Ah yes, the Annapurna circuit is what Lifa and I have decided to do. The 21 day hike takes you around the Annapurna range and up to about 5400 meters. To put that into perspective the top of Whistler mountain is 2182 meters. We leave tomorrow with our porter but no guide (don't worry, we have a map!). We've fitted ourselves out with all the latest trekking gear: baseball hat, rain covers, and of course super cool walking sticks with built in compasses!

The deal is hike high, sleep low. We leave early in the morning (like 5-6am) and hike for 6-8 hours then eat and sleep in little tea houses along the way.

So the moral of the story is, google Annapurna, check it out and think of me on October 21st taking 3 breaths for every step. Oh man, I'm gonna die.

Peace out for 3 weeks.

You know how I love Nipple












Oh Nepal, oh I love thee!
Compared to India, you're just so easy!
Your spicy tea and eggplant lasanga,
Your baby elephants and Everest beer,
The way you can get me from point A to B
Without pulling out my hair and wanting to flee!
Yes, I will stay to explore... just a little more

Kathmandu is a delicious polluted paradise for trekkers and the like. We arrived after the hellish bus ride only to delight ourselves in wonderful Nepali tea and bakery goods, wandering the streets somewhat free of hassle, HOT water and clean sheets, laundry, oh just some wonderful things that only travelling can make you appreciate. A day of doing stuff (yes, like chores) was spent and then a visit to the famous Durbar (no, not Dunbar) Square where ancient temples and palaces are held together (just) under a World Heritage Act and you can really see how the city was way back when, thousands of years ago. Kathmandu has a neat combo of Hindu-Buddhism going on, sort of all mixed together so there's Vishnu on one corner and Buddha on the other, pray to both and you'll be extra lucky. I'm all over the good Karma.

We decided to make the trek out to the famous Swayambhunath (Monkey) temple, which the LP failed to mention was up a gazillion stairs. On a hot day this was not a peasant surprise but we managed and of course, it was worth it. Supposedly Kathmandu used to be a giant lake and this temple protruded as an island shrine. Now, little monkeys guard and wander the grounds looking to either attack you or drink your discarded Coke. The view from the temple gives a sprawling panoramic view of the city - pollution galore!

Chitwan National Park was pretty much the opposite of the capital city. Elephants, rhinos, tigers oh my! We spent three days chilling out with the animals, drinking beers, bathing elephants, riding them, patting them and generally becoming obsessed with them. Besides the brutal heat, forty thousand mossy bites, and the GIGANTIC spider that lived in our bathroom for a day it was just the best!

So, now we're back in Kathmandu-ing stuff to get ready for the big trek. Oh yah!

Darling Darjeeling










This post is late, I'm behind, I know I know.

We spent 4 days in Darling Darjeeling, a high altitude mountain town, where we ventured without hesitation, exploring the steep paths, shops, post office (my favorite) and other hidden treasures. Darjeeling is known for it's expansive valleys of tea plantations, it's Toy Train, and Tiger Hill, a point in which you can view four of the five highest peaks in the world. Oh yes, we did it all, Jusfa styles.

Instead of opting for the conventional "Jeep" route to Tiger Hill (a 45 minute drive) I asked the buddy who runs the pony stables: "Hey, hey buddy, can we take some ponies to Tiger Hill tomorrow?"

"mmmmm, yes, I think we can do that, but you will need a guide"
"of course, yes, a guide. ok ok"
"alright, you be ready at 3AM"
"3AM?!?"
"Yes, ok, no problem, 3AM"
"ok, 3AM it is"

After a 2:30AM rise we were ready at 3AM and waiting. Of course, we forgot about the offical "Indian time" lag and we set out in the dark for the stables where we found some ponies but nothing else. Another 20 minutess later we werer on our way clip-clopping up to the peak. The ponies were small but it was worth every penny as convoys of Jeeps rolled by us, wide-eyed and amazed at our boldness. The pony route is clearly not done often, if ever. The sunrise, although not the clearest, was spectacular and for a brief 10 minutes we marveled at the monstrosity of the huge mountains. They need a better word then 'mountain', it just doesn't cut it, these peaks are far beyond mountains. We left the ponies grazing and hiked further up the hill to the highest lookout point where Indian families exploded out of the Jeeps wanting to take their picture with us - weird and kinda rude to say the least. The place was littered with plastic tea cups, batteries, general crap - not a garbage can around - another "no-system" example. Amazing to see nonetheless but also hard to seperate the beauty from the utter chaos that is happening around you. We returned to our guides only to find them pimping our ponies out for rides and pictures - 20 rupees. Typical. This disqulified them from getting a tip from us as they clearly pocketed plenty from the pimping. By the time we returned back with really really sores asses we snoozed and enjoyed to cool Darjeeling air.

The following day we hitched a ride on the (apparently) spectacular Toy Train ride around a loop at the top of the city. It was cloudy and in my opinion not amazing at all, somewhat of a waste of time but can check it off the World Heritage to do check list. We didn't see much you couldn't have seen from walking, I found it slow and boring and short. But the latter tea tasting part of the day was just great. I (heart) tea.

The ride back to Siliguri was the opposite of the train. The same jam-packed type Jeep took us down in the absolute pouring rain, one flat tire right off the bat then we U-turned down a short cut - down only, one way lane, zig-zagging along the side of a mountain. Saw a few crashed cars and managed to get the bottom where the surrounding tea plantation valley was just lush and beautiful... but not as great as our second flat. We had no time to waste as we had another 2 busses to catch so we flagged another Jeep and made it into town. Hours and hours and hours later, and many horror stories past we made it to Nepal! I can't possibly discribe the bus ride. Think pigs, pigeons, people on our laps, not working buses, and everything else chaotic. I've blocked it from memory, it's better this way.