From Bodhgaya to Darjeeling and everything inbetween

** This entry was taken directly from my written journal when we arrived last night so it's fresh, honest and probably not the most reader friendly but entertaining nonetheless. Enjoy **

Leaving Bodhgaya I had only two goals in mind to do while in Darjeeling
1) Take a shower
2) Do laundry

Yes, yes we have come a long way. From Bodhgaya we jerked around in a shared auto-rickshaw to the Gaya train station where we preceded to buy "free for all", non-reserved seats for the 3 hour leg to Patna. This, we learned quickly, need the bitch factor to be turned up to 25: pushing, shoving, squishing, staring, glaring - whatever needed to be done. We made it through in one piece and came out much tougher than going in. Patna was a "rest" stop for 5 hours before our overnight train and instead of attempting to cross 12 "lanes" of bazaar-o-land traffic we paid a rickshaw guy 10rps. to do it for us and take us to a nice hotel where food could be had. Their fancy restaurant was closed until 7:30pm suppertime buy they were kind enough (or pitied enough) to let us order from the room service menu, call a cook, and whip us up a delicious batch of dal and nan - with two Fantas of course. We dined like queens in their AC'd Internet room in which after we made use of their quick connection and generators, as the power went on and off the whole time we were there. Just wonderful.

Anyway, another rickshaw ride later we were back at the train station doing jigs to entertain the large crowd that was circling us - just because we're white girls! Halla! So, just when all you want is a bunk with clean sheets and a pillow, after 13 hours of sweaty, aggravating travel and there in your bunks AS1 - 17 and 18 are snotty UK old folks with their personal India guide whom they tell to "BETTA GO DEAAAL WITH IIIT!". omg. For the record, we checked with the conductor AND about 3 other well train versed Indian travellers, we were in the right but they moved us to another car nonetheless, got some clean linens and that was that. Just another pain in the ass. Ok, ok. So families come and go around us, lights are on and off, hands on your bunks and in your beds and finally we arrive in NJP - hot, sweaty, annoyed...again. After two back and forth trips to the tourist office (no one here ever knows anything) we conclude that another rickshaw journey must be taken. So, in and out with bags in tow, a couple of rickshaws later we agree on a price and off we go. From the bus station we locate the pre-paid Jeeps to take us up the mountains to Darjeeling and also our first ice cream bars of the trip - delicious! Ten minutes of sweating in the shared Jeep pass, sweat rags sopping and already somewhat uncomfortable in our sideways trunk seats we watch our bags flung to the roof, get strapped down and off we go with one sketchy driver! Within the first 5 minutes I comment to Lifa on his poor, or lack of, breaking skills.... ahhhhh, foreshadowing! Up, up, up! Switching back and fourth. Break, Gas, Honk! Honk, Break Gas! To make what was supposed to be a 3.5 hours trip one that turned into 5.5 hours you know just a few things we aw re.

Problem one: buddy crashed the car.

Yeah, I called it. I know. We slam into the back of the Jeep ahead of us... other buddy is pissed, no one knows what to do...yap yap yap and we all climb in again when the car starts thinking we're going somewhere but instead pull ahead 7 yards because we've got a flat. I take the opportunity to take a leak, Lifa snaps some shots, we ponder the beauty of the hills then finally regroup and try again.

9 almost car crashes later we stop again because buddy needs to replace the now flat spare tire. Fine. We wait. Have I mentioned at all how shoddy this road it? No? Picture the Sea to Sky when someone, somewhere first had the vision to build it...then picture just about a car and a half's length wide...but no road, not even gravel, not even anything - we didn't get about 40k/h. So, here we go again only to hit a town having some sort of dead baby parade (deductive conclusion) all over the one and only road. Wait, wait, wait. Hours later we're dropped in the middle of the most wonderful town where we wander, hire a porter to carry our bags up the mountain, find a hotel and are told (remember goal number one and two) there is no running water anywhere as the past weeks rains have caused a landslide on the supply line, killed 8 people, and they are trying to recover and get things working again. Just think: the smelliest you've ever been, times it by 30 and know you will not be getting any cleaner for the next week. Alas, I managed to suss enough ice cold water to wash my hair and face in the sink - just. The possibility of clean clothes is grim. I will just buy some new ones.

But really, this place is just delightful. No cows, cars, or people staring. Cool and crisp air, nestled within the Himalayan foothills. A good first impression and a great first meal at one of the smallest hole-in-the-wall Tibetan restaurants which served us the best ever chicken soup I've ever had and hot hot tea. I am in love.

For all the missing details of this blog entry visit Lifa's blog...a whole nother story!

Finding Enlightenment?

Varanassi, a holy place where the streets are slick with cow shit from days and days of Monsoon rain. It was a challenge trying to navigate the lanes, alleys, ghats, streets, markets, paths and crannies of this city. In fact, it's so difficult addresses don't even exist as they would be meaningless. Lifa and I explored for 3 days. Up the river, down the river, and up the river again. It was memorizing watching the colours of the women, children and men dip themselves into the waters to cleanse their souls. Not only do non-Indian tourists come here but many "cultural tours" of India make a stop to let all the people take a dunk. Laura braved her big toe and did a little splashing...but really, that river is just disgusting. Just watching what rolls into it from Varanassi alone is appalling, then add on the hundreds of other cities that use it as their dumping grounds... ew!

We spent a day about a half hour auto-rickshaw ride from Varanassi center, checking out some very old Buddist temples and fending off beggars. The beggars are something I'm getting tired of. There are just so many, and they are so aggressive a lot of the time you have to physically push them out of the way. We're not two weeks into it, I know, but India is just a beat you down until you can't take it any more country... totally utterly exhausting. But the plus side of all the rain in Very-Nasty was the fact that we didn't find it too hot to drink about 30 pots of Chai each. Not only is this Indian tea mind-blowingly wonderful but it also will keep you awake for hours on end which we learned one night...that turned into a very early morning. If only I had known this during exam time.

As the title of this blog suggests, Lifa and I went on a search for enlightenment and the obvious choice of places to go looking was Bodhgaya where, under an old Bodhi tree, Buddah found his. I tried, I swear. But with all the hustle and bustle around and millions of people staring out you it's just not an easy task. We concluded enlightenment was similar to a very cold Fanta, on a very hot day. Ahhhhhh!

In Bodhgaya I also picked up some sort of delightful throat infection (yet to be dealt with) and a leaf of the actual tree Buddah became enlightened under! Amazing! The multitudes of Buddist temples around the sight make a regular pilgrimage stop for many - although that is mainly in October to late November and we only saw one other whitey. However, the town, as poverty stricken as it is, has a quaint feel that gives you that enlightened feeling...oh that enlightened feeling...

As of now, I am sitting in the wonderful AC of the Hotel Windsor in Patena, a mere pit stop for a overnight train connection to NJP, which is another pit stop on the way to Darjeeling. Two haul ass days of travel, that is for sure. Rickshaw, bus, train, rickshaw, cycle, train, rickshaw, train, and toy train. chug chug chugging along here in India. Sometimes I love it, sometimes I want to tell it to shove it (like earlier today). It changes by the second and dependent on how many people are trying to rip me off at a time.

Sorry about the lack of photos, I will add them later. It has just not been in the cards lately. Hit or miss with the computers, hit or miss with the power. Hit or miss India!

Ghandhi wouldn't be staring

Lifa and I arrived in India and made it to our shabby hotel in one piece (just). Delhi is indescribable. Hot, sweaty, noisy, pushy, smelly, polluted, crazy - maybe combine those words and times them by thirty...you'd be getting closer. We survived 2 days of it including almost dying in a bicycle rickshaw, almost dying of heat during regular power cuts, almost dying arguing with buddies over prices, and almost dying trying to get to the train to get out of the city. We checked out the Red Fort (a main attraction) and have moved on to a smaller and better place - Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.

Agra is more manageable and our little lodge is just so fantastic. A rooftop restaurant (which serves banana lassis and chocolate and banana pancakes - a new addition to the menu because of us) overlooks the center city area and the Taj - just totally amazing. My first glance definitely took my breath away. So far the biggest problem here has been: What am I going to wear to the Taj Mahal? A nice change from the utterly frustrating experiences of Delhi pesters. Now don't get me wrong, the in your face style of nattering is everywhere but perhaps we're just getting a little more used to it, or my crazy "no" dance is scaring most of them away...some of them laugh at me - laugh all you want, it works.

There is a festival of some sorts (Hindu Gods and such) going on outside. Elephants, floats, lights, hats, music - it's totally crazy, India styles. Because of the fact that the town has been turned into a Hindu Vegas there has been consistent and long lasting power cuts all day. It's so freaking hot without the little fan going I can't even explain. Too bad we didn't know about the festival earlier...we would have stayed another night to party with the locals. But alas tonight we are hitching a ride on the overnight train to Varanassi, one of the holiest cities in India where bodies are burned and dumped into the most polluted river in the world. Part 50 is considered not swimmable water, the Ganges is part 1.5million.

I have now figured that in India, where ever you go, no matter how tourist oriented, there is always the stare. And I feel, personally, that Lifa and I get started at more than most. We even caught two different men taking pictures of us with their cell phone cameras at the train station. Trying to be sooooo sneaky. I don't like to think what they do with those pictures. I'm going to get a t-shirt made with the Hindi writing "Ghadhi would be staring". Just something we have to get used to but some days it's just particularly aggravating.

Okay - so I'm out to the holy city to see one of the most famous rivers in the world and cleanse my wrong doings.

Typhooning on my parade

4 Amber alert typhoon warnings have set my remaining HK plans off track. Rain, wind, lightning, thunder, umbrellas poking you in the eye every which way...the madness! Even school children were sent home from their afternoon classes. I have been set back. The original plan was to check out Lantau for a day and Macau for another - both islands off the coast of HK, each about an hour ferry ride away. But when you're utterly soaking the entire time and your brolly is being blown inside-out, it just isn't as fun. So, alas, another reason I will have to come back. Mel and I did however, make it to Lamma, on a day that turned out to be just ideal (as it only started Typhooning on our way home). I swam in the warm oceans, hiked some jungly paths, and enjoyed the view - a hippy island really and we also made it to Cheung Chau Island where we rented bikes for a few hours, toured the hills and chilled with some beer...all very civilized as there are no cars on either of the Islands. We were so relaxed we managed to miss the 3.5 earthquake that happened during dinner. We then went to Stanley market where I could have done some serious shopping, but ended up with a few hair bands and a skirt. Don't get me wrong though, I will return and do some damage.

As I've said before, Mel's family has been spoiling me rotten. Dinner with her Dad Jimmy is an affair alone and I have had not only the best seafood of my life (we picked it out while it was still swimming around) but also the best Kobe steak I think I will ever have! I have had endless dishes placed in front of me and have tried pretty much everything, some of it I don't even know what it is. Meat, meat, meat for breakfast lunch and dinner is getting somewhat tiresome however and I'm looking forward to the change that a mainly vegetarian India has to offer.

Tomorrow I leave for Delhi, with a short stop in Singapore and will, if all goes according to plan, be greeted by Laura in the airport. I think we're ready. Let's go India! Bring it!

Mei Zhou, China - a guai mui adventure

I am now officially Asian. Mel, Cail, Penny, Leroy and I - along with with Mels entire family (all 40+ of them) went to the home village that they were all born in. Warm Chinese traditions surrounded the whole trip and it was totally amazing. We took a 6 hour bus ride there and watched feast number one be prepared while giving thanks at the home temple. Food, more food and yes, more food - always eating.

We spent time visiting some very old temples built high into the surrounding mountains that gave the aura of peace and thanks and also participated in traditional prayer ceremonies involving incense lighting and firecrackers. Neat. Massages from feisty little Chinese girls were also on the menu - ow! but so so good.

The best part of the whole trip was the Chinese disco Club Gold Coast. Oh man, that place was cooooraaazeee! The village is so poor yet this disco was just insane! 40ft ceilings, glass windows, smoke machines, levitating dance floors and dancing call girls! Just totally unbelievable. Nothing like you could even imagine. Of course being white was a big hit there so we rocked the dance floor like nothing else while a continuous stream of Brittany Spears videos were playing on the big screen. AND the dancing call girls all had numbers tagged to them so you could just order one. Wild!

One the way home from China we stopped at the most amazing mall, Lowu. A seven level indoor market style center where you can bargain your brains out. Just my style.

3 days in China was just a teaser - a place that deserves at least 3 months.

Hongified

Hong Kong is totally amazing. A super-sized combo of old and new and East and West. I'm living in Mei Foo, a convenient metro ride away from just about everything. The transportation systems here are far beyond anything I've ever encountered and you can get anywhere using your 'octopus card', or as I like to say "the octi-card". MTR, KCR, ferry, bus, tram, cable car, anything that moves is connected to a little card which you load up and scan when you enter/exit stations (it charges by distance)and you can also use the card at 7-11. Just incredible!

I love this city. I have been Hongified.

After arriving I had only enough time to shower before enjoying my first Dim Sum ever. And this my friends, was the begginning of the end. I have not stopped eating since. I am certain I have tried more new foods in the past 7 days than I have in the past 10 years of my life. I am being spoiled to death by Mel and her family and just being white can really get you places here. So, to set the scene, just imagine mounds and mounds of food every 4 hours or so...and I mean mounds, dishes upon dishes stacked one on top of the other because there just isn't enough space on the table. Now imagine me, only 20 pounds fatter.

The weather has been slightly uncompromising and about 3 amber alert typhoon warnings have been issued over the past 5 days. Rain, rain, rain. But, I have persevered! The 10,000 Buddha temple was first on my list and not well known on the tourist circuit - not another whitey, or anyone around. I also managed to squeeze the "Peak" in before the rain to get a beautiful view of the HK sky line and the outlying islands. I've educated myself at the History of HK Museum and learned about prehistoric pasts up until now - very interesting to say the least. Okay, so who am I kidding, the markets....OH the markets! These alone are the sole reason I *have* to come back here. I can't buy anything as I don't want to huff around with unnecessary weight but you can really buy anything your little heart desires here. My heart desires the shoes! There are indoor markets, outdoor markets, night markets, food markets, fish markets, tea markets, day markets...I love them all! My small purchases have included a bing-bong, a watch, and new sunglasses (already broke the ones I brought) but I am now exaggerating when I say I could spend thousands...thousands and thousands on shoes. Be proud, I have not bought one pair - not even tried them on. I only dream of them...

The moral of the story is: I will come back here one day to shop my little head right off.

More to come...